Tips&history: Mr. Selfridges

Is there anything better, than to drift away on a sea of fashion history? I reckon there is not... therefore I away get psyched when a new costume drama series pops up. My most recent discovery has been 'Mr. Selfride' which a lovely colleague of mine pointed out to me. A series filled with historic fashion imagery since the story is about Selfridges warehouse in Londen during the last years of La Belle Epoque. A true delight, absolutely lovely to watch. Great imagery, lovely casting and a cute 'Brittish' story....

Since a picture says more then a thousand words and a movie is filled with a thousand pictures.... I say watch the Mr. Selfridge trailer to see if this is something you kittens would like to watch....

Parade's End

Another costume drama which I strongly recommend; Parade´s End. A gorgeous BBC series in which the Belle Epoque fashion stands out above anything else. The casting is marvelous as well. An although the story is not incredibly intruiging, all the other strong points make up for that. Here is the BBC summary on two of the main characters. Especially Sylvia is dressed to perfection, as a true socialite would have been dressed in those days.... *sigh*

In the dying days of the Edwardian Empire, Christopher Tietjens enters into a destructive marriage with the beautiful but cruel socialite Sylvia....

Sylvia Tietjens

Played by Rebecca Hall

Sylvia is a stunningly beautiful socialite who marries Christopher Tietjens because she is pregnant – although not necessarily with his child… She is selfish, manipulative and cruel, yet also mesmerising. Forever restless, Sylvia enjoys a stream of affairs, but she is secretly hurt by the fact that Christopher does not seem to notice her.

Christopher Tietjens

Played by Benedict Cumberbatch

Christopher Tietjens is an English aristocrat clinging to Edwardian values as the world around him seems to change at dizzying speed. He refuses to compromise these principles whatever the cost – resigning from his job as a government statistician when he is asked to manipulate the facts, and remaining faithful to Sylvia even when she leaves him for another man. When Christopher falls in love with Valentine, a young suffragette, he faces a battle between what he feels for her and what he feels is right.

Edith Heads Hollywood

I have to say I never fully realized the unmistakable influence Hollywood fashion had on fashion trends throughout the 20th century. Of course the up rise and popularity of the Golden Era had to leave it's marks on fashion history, but the gravity of those influences are impressive. So impressive that many books have been written about it. A close friend of mine recommended I'd read the book 'Edith Head's Hollywood' since Edith was without a doubt one of the most influential Hollywood designers out there. Having read the book, I can only do the same and recommend it to you guys. The story telling is great (a combination of a factual biography written by P and Edith's own career diary) and the whole book is educative from front to cover. Let me tell you a little bit about the book to get you in the mood....

Born late 19th century, Edith started her working career as a teacher. During the early twenties, teachers did not get paid during the summer holidays, so Edith (as well as all the other teachers in that time) had to find a summer job in order to pay her rent. This is how she came to work as a sketch artist at Paramount. She manipulatively babbled her way through a job interview, knowing she wasn't specialized in drawing human figures at all. In fact, she was a promising landscape artist... but that had little to do with sketching costumes. This summer job soon opened Head's eyes as she discovered working as a costume designer was the drive she needed in life. Having great artist like Travis Banton as her mentor, Edith grew into one of the most (if not, thé) influential costume designers Hollywood has ever know. 

'Edith Head's Hollywood' takes you on a tour through Hollywood's most famous movies from the twenties till far up the 20th century, with almost every famous star imaginable from that era being dressed by Edith. It is amazing to know the story (and detailed description) about each design and incredibly interesting to know which fashion trends arised from Head's costumes. From the sarong Dottie Lamour wore in 'The Jungle Princess' to the LBD Hepburn wore in 'Breakfast at Tiffany's' the tiny Edith Head was responsible for their transformation to the latest fashion trends. The book also gives you an idea on the personality of the different stars Edith works with, as there are a lot of passages in the book written by Head herself. Those encounters and relations is what gives the book that little extra flavor which makes the pages fly through your fingers...

So if you are as infatuated with fashion history, costume details and old Hollywood as me; get your hands on this book and let it take you on a sea of vintage dreams! What do you recon ladies and gents?

Fabulous Fifties exhibition part: II

And here is part deux from the Fabulous Fifties (<- see the first part here) exhibition! There are even some dashing vintage chaps in these pictures...ooh la la ;) If you feel like revisiting part one again; click here. What a dream!

Ok... what does this scene make you think of?

The lovely beach-section of the exhibition...

(8) Booorn to be wiiihiihiihiiild (8)

Vintage inspired Vivienne Westwood designs

Home made designs from designer patterns (Vogue)

A black version of the Dior New Look 1947

Galliano for Dior anno 2009

The 50s, where 'strutting' around on the beach was still considered important

I SO want this hat *imaginary wishlist check*

...... MAD MEN a galore

Tante went for the black suit on the left...

This is so me :)

.... and this stunning grey suit

Wowie, work those abs miss!

Modern offices should look more like this!

Fabulous Fifties exhibition part: I

When news cam out that there was going to be a Fabulous Fifties fashion exhibition in the Gemeente Museum Den Haag, I knew I had to be there. I figured it would be right up my alley and it turned out; it was! I was accompanied by the beautiful Tante Patent, who is not only a close friend but also a connaiseur when it comes to fashion history. We had an amazing time strolling through the themed rooms filled with fifties gorgeousness.

We talked about the pieces and made of list of which items we would want to take home (which made us very greedy haha.) These was so much beautiful fashion to take in, we actually made two rounds with a nice coffee brake in between. Of course I did my best to make pictures for you lovelies... especially the girls not living in The Netherlands, because I highly recommend visiting this exhibition if you are a fifties loving Dutch gal! So here is the first part of the snaps I made. Which piece would you take home if you had the chance?

(8) Petticoat, petticoat...in roze, lila, geel of rood (8)

Wouldn't you want to be a housewive too, when you could dress like this?

Prada s/s 2012 does 1950s

Yes, please. All of them.

We especially loved the umbrella apron

This section looked almost.... regal (L)

Tiny fifties fashion... so cute!

More Prada

HELLO pink!

More lace and tulle. Of course.

This is so Audrey Hepburn-o-witz

Now that's a cherry print I do like!

I put this dress on my imaginary wishlist

Ooooh lala.... naughty girl

Ocelot beauty

If you ever visit Utrecht and the Oudegracht district... make sure to enter a little shop specialized in vintage and antique photographs. I don't know the name of the shop, but you will recognize it immediately when you pass the shop window filled with faces and beauty from the past. A few weeks ago, I went there with my friend Tante Patent and I found a gorgeous photograph from the 30s (according to the seller.) I just adore the beautiful ocelot fur coat and the grace of the lady wearing it. When I took the picture out of the paspartout (to put it in a frame) I discovered there was a little note attached to the back.... a note which, to me, sounds like pure poetry... (L)

"A Wild Beast donates to a beautiful jacket. Fashion New York... The ocelot fur jacket here covers a youthful rayon crepe frock, featuring a soft high cowl neckline and butterfly sleeves. Complementing the ensemble are the smart accessories --shoes and handbag-- in matching gabardine. They are trimmed with discreet patent leather edging. The costume bids for popularity among the fall and winter fashions."

A dedication to boobs

On the 18th of July 2012, word came out that the world's oldest bra had been found. Now this is a lovely piece of news to a fashion history lover as myself. For years we were ment to believe the first bra-like garments were worn by the end of the 19th century. Turns out that is not true. The bra that is now changing our believes about underwear was found in Austria and is over 500 years old!  The bra was discovered in a waste-filled vault at Lengberg Castle, together with a few more bra like garments. So it was in fact not a 19th century invention; the bra already existed (in some form) in the 15th century!

I have to admit that part of me thinks that there are probably bra's out there that are even older than that...  Women have always had boobs and having them just 'hang' is not comfortable. I can imagine one being very motivated in finding something to solve that back in the days. Undergarments are usually made of delicate materials and I think the problem in not finding them is that they're simply faded away... And since documenting underwear propably wasn't on peoples minds hundreds of years ago, who know what might have been lost over the centuries? Haha hell, for all I know Cleopatra was walking around strutting a fancy emerald breast holder in her days.

Finish the look: basic 1950s

So here is some info on 1950s accessories in general. You can use this when you are in need of some fifties-style advice... you can use this in addition to the 'create the New Look' bit I posted earlier. Typical fifties shoes are pumps with kitten heels. I HATE those... please shoot me now if I ever have to wear them... I can't even look at them without feeling nauseas. I like high high heels. So I will not dedicate more time on those tiny heel-wannabees haha.

Semi s-shapes heels are the best!

The only thing in my wardrobe I prefer to be modern at all times are shoes, but I do like it when they are vintage inspired. For that fifties look, a peeptoe is a good way to go but pointy toes can look very authentic too. The shoes can be decorated with bows for instance, and t-straps or ankle straps can look good too. The heels were usually slim, but they can we a bit more chunky as well (note: not seventies-Abba-chunky.) A heel with the right 'curve' (alsmost an s-shape, see picture) makes almost every shoe fifty-ish. Concerning the height, choose what you like. A very high heel is modern, but as long as the shape/colour of the shoe is fifties I'd say 'go for it.' I myself either wear high heels or no heels. If you do not like heels or find them uncomfortable; take Audrey Hepburn as an example. She is the queen of cute loafers/weejuns and ballerina-like shoes that where also popular footwear in the fifties.

See the difference...

Pearls were the most seen in jewelry. Earrings as well as necklaces, and both were mostly short (NO long dangly earrings or 1920s pearl-strings...) Lucite and bakelite were popular materials for accessories as well, you can find a lot of original bracelets and clip-op earrings still.

Some fiftie-ish loafers of mine

Short tied up scarves of scarves as headbands can complete the fifties look, as long as they're not too heavy and big. The final, but not least important thing, handbags! And with that I mean cute purses and clutches, not big shoppers and absolutely no shoulder bags (beach totes excepted.) A handbag or a clutch is what was worn, it was a time where women didn't need to bring they're phones and tablets with them after all....

Create the look: basic 1950s New Look

The New Look silhouette is my favourite. It's very feminine and fortunately it looks good on me. I believe creating that hourglass figure is the best way to create a fifties look. These days, a huge trend is repro wear with classic 'fifties' prints; polka dots and cherrys. I'm not a lover when it comes to those prints, although I can like it on others. To me; those prints (on their own) have got little to do with true fifties style. I believe the most important thing to create a fifties vibe in your outfit is the way the garment is 'shaped and styled.' Don't get me wrong; it can work, espescially when you're more into a Rockabilly look. As long as the printed fabric is part of an authentic looking garment, silhouette wise.

 

Don't forget this is just my personal opinion, I wouldn't wear cherry prints etc. but I often like them on others :) Let me get back to the silhouette, and the way to create it yourself. It is all about the waistline; whether you wear a skirt of pants, the garment needs to be worn in the waist and preferably accentuated with a (thin) belt. If a garment worn on the hips... it will never look fifties! When wearing a belt; those huge wide elastic belts with enormous buckles are cute... but often more eighties than fifties. And me no likey the whole 'Madonna-does-fifties-in-the-80s-look.'

Left is the correct hight, right is the hight people often mistake for a waistline!

The skirt in a New Look silhouette should be a cirkle skirt... or very close to one. During the seventies, high waisted wears were the trend as well... but the skirts were less full than the typical fifties skirt. Wearing a petticoat underneath the skirt/dress can strengthen the look, but it isn't necessary when the skirt is already a full circle. Oh and please don't go for the fluorescent petticoats, unless you are going to that 1980s' look after all haha. The length of the skirt needs to cover the knees at least. The most authentic length would be halfway across the calves (note: heels will be essential with this length.)

Contrary to the voluminous lower end of the silhouette; the shoulders were most often narrow. Shoulderpads were hot in the forties and later on in the eighties, but nowhere in between. A skirt was mostly worn with a blouse and/or a sweater/cardigan. Sleeves and necklines can be all different sizes and shapes. Blouses without a collar, rolled up (cap) sleeves, boatnecks... you can go in many different directions. Avoid wide t-shirts and anything with a print that is too modern.

For now, this will give you a good guide on how to create a basic, yet authentic New Look silhouette. In the future I'll tell more about outdoor wear, undergarments, evening wear, accessories, the household look and so on. Makeup wise I can recommend you to search on Youtube since there are many fun tutorials. Same goed for the hair, I'm not a genious with hairstyling so I will leave that to the professionals haha.